3/24/2024 0 Comments 1961 ford thunderbird t shirts![]() The 1955 Thunderbird was more of a personal car concept than a sports car, the result of a decision Crusoe made during the winter of 1953-54. There is also the possibility that the seat is stuck up against one of the limit switches.Ford Thunderbird 1955 to 2004 Photo Gallery If the motor works, then you can move onto the switch which will require checking a lot of wires with an ohm meter. Then to test each direction, put 12V on red and it should spin one way, then put 12V on yellow and it should spin the other way. You have to provide 12V to the green wire at all times. Connect the black wire to power supply ground. To test it, I recommend using a 12V power supply or a battery on a bench and three clip leads. ![]() The four wires are black (ground), green (armature, the rotating coil), red (field coil-I'll just arbitrarily say counter-clockwise), and yellow (field coil-clockwise). The motor is going to have four wires as shown here from this partial view of the circuit from the EAM: There is a rocker switch with 8 wires coming out of it controlling the relay, motor, and solenoids. You can also get a clearer view of the power seat diagram from page 84 of the Electrical Assembly Manual. There is a chart there showing what is controlled by a fuse and what is controlled by a breaker. It is the 30A breaker connected to the starter relay. I keep hearing people say to check the fuses. So in addition to the tips given by Joe, I'd like to chime in.ĭo you have the shop manual? Go to page 10-33 and you will see the wiring diagram for the power seats. Wow Joe, you sound like a handy guy to have around! How about hopping a flight back up north and giving me a hand with some thingsĬan the fuse be the problem in the starter relay ? I have been reading that there is a 30 amp breaker in the starter relay that must be checked ? Is this true Joe Johnston wrote:What I have found when troubleshooting power window, seat, and other motors:Īh, it's like deja vu all over again in here Joe! Nothing glamorous or computer controlled, just old school electrical and mechanical functions that with a bit of TLC will last another 50 years. These wires are long enough to test tail lights or convertible pumps as well.Ĩ- no quick fix, just basic diagnostic of simple electrical switches and relays and basic mechanical cleaning, greasing and aligning. ![]() The other 25' piece gets an alligator clip,an inline fuse for the battery positive terminal and the other end is left bare to supply power to hot wire the unit in question. Often poor grounds are the problem in an old car. This provides an excellent ground when testing and is the fist thing I do. One piece gets an alligator clip on each end to use from the battery ground terminal and the other to the motor in question. May be just me and my lack of ability of using a meter, but I prefer a home made test light to test things.ħ- I also took a 50' coil of 12 gauge wire, cut it in half. In my opinion the light has enough current draw that will burn dimly if there is a problem, whereas a meter may show full voltage. Seal with electrical grease.ĥ- adding an additional ground wire never hurts and won't be seen inside a door or under a seat - power to the unit is only part of the issue, clean grounding connections are mandatoryĦ- in testing I use a test light not a meter. Use your battery or battery charger for a power supply.Ĥ- clean switches and relays are a must as all plug in connectors in the harness must be corrosion free. Run them a minute in each direction (if bi-directional) to make sue the oil is worked in and they are dependable. Fan motors are used the most, then window motors, and seat the least, but seat tracks are the dirtiest.ģ- use the electrical manual/diagram to determine the proper wires and bench test the motors. If 2 drops of oil make it work, no need to take it apart. These motors are pretty rugged, but need to be cleaned and properly lubed to go another 50 years. Seal the drilled hole with some form of sealant. Start turning, pushing and pulling the shaft and most often the oil will work into the bushings and will eventually spin freely. Drill a small hole in the back of the housing on center to enable a drop of oil to be entered into the rear bushing on the shaft. It is amazing how easy a seat track will move when clean, greased and properly aligned.Ģ- when cleaning, remove the motor in question. ![]() What I have found when troubleshooting power window, seat, and other motors:ġ- quite often it is old dry grease and dirt that has made the tracks/slides quite difficult (even impossible) to move and everything must be be disassembled, cleaned and re-greased, including gearboxes, screws and solenoids. ![]()
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